Untreated African hair was utilized to prepare three tresses weighing 1. The tresses were cleansed using Tress no. It was treated with control hair relaxer for 18 min, then shampooed twice with a neutralizing shampoo and rinsed thoroughly with water. The third tress was treated with hair relaxer containing cationic polyamine and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate experimental relaxer for 18 min. The tress was then rinsed, shampooed twice with a neutralizing shampoo and rinsed again thoroughly with water in a manner identical to tress no.
Each tress was cut into small pieces and 0. Exactly 15 ml of water were added to each tube, and samples were shaken in a shaker at rpm for 4 hr. The tubes were set parallel to the shaking platform to maximize shaking. After 4 hr, 0. A solution of bovin serum albumin was prepared with a concentration of 1.
This standardized solution was utilized in preparing the standard curve for determination of the unknown concentrations in the supernatant. After 30 min of incubation, 1 ml of copper carbonate solution was added and mixed into each sample. These samples were further incubated for another 15 min and 3 ml of O. All samples were incubated for 40 min, and absorbance was read at nm. From the absorbance for each sample, the concentration of cuticle loss in each sample was determined Table 8.
It is clear from these results that the experimental hair relaxer corrodes cuticles significantly less than the control hair relaxer. In the last 20 years, many innovations have taken place in the area of hair relaxing and permanent waving. However, the last five years have proven to be even more fruitful, as new innovations in this time period have revolutionized the hair relaxing technology. In this study, a series of cationic polyamines and starch hydrolysates have been used at various levels, separately and in combinations, to control the swelling of hair during relaxing and to enhance the strength of relaxed hair.
It is now clear that during the relaxing process, hair swells to a maximum degree and the cuticle layers open widely. The cationic polyamines are able to penetrate into the cortex, and even upon rinsing hair with water, the cationic polyamines remain trapped in the cortex of the hair as the hair de-swells.
They are also ionically bonded to the negative sites on the hair surface while imparting a tremendous degree of combing ease. Because cationic polyamines are elastic, the trapped cationic polyamines improve the elasticity and tensile strength of the relaxed hair fibers. While cationic polyamines are busy penetrating the hair, the hydrogenated starch hydrolysates present in high concentration around and outside the hair fibers are able to reduce the everbuilding osmotic pressure inside the hair during the relaxing lanthionizing process, thereby reducing the swelling of hair fibers significantly.
The major benefit of this reduction is the prevention of longitudinal and radial cracks in the hair fibers. Therefore, this combination of starch hydrolysates and cationic polyamines results in healthier relaxed hair. Other benefits of simultaneous deswelling and strengthening are accrued in the form of tremendous wet and dry combing ease, reduced porosity of relaxed hair and minimal erosion of relaxed hair fiber cuticles. These new innovations have, indeed, revolutionized the relaxing of excessively curly hair by significantly decreasing the extent of damage during the relaxing process.
For more information visit Dr. Ali Syed: In the Lab. Enter your info below. By signing up you agree to our terms. Because tightly curly hair is international including Asians, Indian, and South Americans the doctor use excessively curly hair in his writings. I grow hair. The relaxer was not invented by Johnson in It was invented in by Garrett Augustus Morgan, the inventor of the stop light and gas mask.
Please get the facts straight.. Please log in again. The login page will open in a new tab. After logging in you can close it and return to this page.
I would love it if you would sign up to my email newsletter. Your eBook is on the way to the email you just entered. Please check your email inbox to download. I am reposting this article in which I previously posted on my blog in Literature by Ali N. Syed, Hasan Ayoub and Anna Kuhajda — In literature, innovation is defined as the initiation or adoption of new products, processes or ideas by organizations.
The History Before discussing the history of the curly hair-care industry, it is necessary to understand the nature of excessively curly hair. Madame C. Relaxer System — Beyond While most of the attention was being given to sodium hydroxide-based cream relaxers, Carson Products Company introduced a new patented two-component cream relaxer in which was formulated with the active ingredient guanidine hydroxide, produced by mixing a cream containing calcium hydroxide with a liquid activator containing guanidine carbonate.
The Chemistry As noted above. Damaging Effects Most relaxer creams are comprised of active ingredients like sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide or guanidine two-component system.
Swelling: The swelling studies were done using a laser micrometer that measures the major and minor axis of the fiber simultaneously. An example of relaxers with and without de-swelling ingredients is shown in Table 3. Cuticle erosion: Untreated African hair was utilized to prepare three tresses weighing 1. The Conclusion In the last 20 years, many innovations have taken place in the area of hair relaxing and permanent waving. Hi, I'm Ellisha.
Like this: Like Loading December 16, at am. Log in to Reply. Ellisha says:. By total accident, Morgan developed a hair topical for black people to chemically force their naturally curly hair straight. Relaxers are made of chemicals that counteract the natural chemical makeup of curly hair. Though there are some relaxers, such as Dark and Lovely, African Pride, and Optimum Care, who exclude lye from the ingredient regimen, there are other chemicals used that are still hazardous.
Another ingredient is guanidine carbonate. This warning is startling because a relaxer directly comes in contact with the users scalp. Scientific research has shown there is cause for concern with the use of the ingredients found in Black hair care products. These products enter our body via the scalp and can lead to many complications. Studies show relaxers cause life-threatening ailments such as reproductive problems, heart disease, different forms of cancer, early puberty, fibroids, and mental health disorders.
Relaxers have been found to disrupt the chemical balance of our bodies by entering our system via cuts and burns. For more information on just much relaxers are harming you and how they pose an immediate danger to your physical health, take a look at the video below!
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